Leeds Waterfront and Royal Armouries Museum

In Brief.

Leeds is in the middle of the country, so the waterfront centres on the River Aire, which both powered mills and was made navigable as part of the canal network. The formerly industrial waterfront has been modernised, with many flats, offices and restaurants occupying modern and renovated buildings. In the heart of all this is the substantial, Royal Armouries Museum that houses a huge collection of arms and armour, with associated displays on warfare, inventiveness and folly.

Royal Armouries Museum and Leeds Dock

What's Here?

The Royal Armouries Museum is probably the cultural centerpiece of the Leeds waterfront, and sits adjacent to the Leeds Dock, with its cafes and canal boat moorings. The museum is an imposing modern building on the outside, and inside includes substantial display spaces filled with arms and armour, largely from the Middle Ages to the 2nd World War.  While there is a striking Hall of Steel that displays 2500 items of armour and offensive arms for effect, most of the displays are for information. These include models of battles adjacent to displays of the equipment and tactics deployed, and full-size exhibits of horse and rider ready for the fray.  The impressive galleries have themes that include war, tournament, oriental and hunting, though the sheer scale and disconcerting subject matter may seem a bit overwhelming, and I was happy to move on having not really done the collections justice.

A dockside crane near Granary Wharf

The Leeds Waterfront Trail, for which there is a handy map, is more relaxing, if likely less informative. There are paths adjacent to the river for much of the way through the town centre, where renovated mills, canal locks and preserved industrial infrastructure stand side-by side with modern offices and flats. Several areas around Leeds Dock, Brewery Wharf and Granary Wharf provide social spaces, with cafes and restaurants in waterfront locations. Overall, it seems to be a good example of the repurposing of an industrial landscape, recalling the history but moving on without many grievous architectural misjudgements (though you have to wonder who thought Bridgewater Place was a good idea).

Practicalities.

Distance from Manchester Town Hall: 45 miles

Drive Time: 1 hour 10 minutes.

Price: The Museum is Free, but requests donations

Parking: I parked at CitiPark Leeds Dock, near the museum; reasonable city centre pricing.

Food and Drink: There is a compact cafe in the museum, and there are lots of coffee shops and eateries around the waterfront.

Retail therapy: There is a gift shop in the museum, with assorted armoury themed books and games. Perhaps a unique opportunity to purchase an armoured elephant soft toy!

Child Friendly: I wondered if, visiting on a Sunday, there would be 5 floors of children learning about war. However, although there were plenty families present, typical exhibits are not really targeted at kids.  On departing there was a sword fight taking place immediately outside as some parents started to regret their recent purchase.

Toilets: Yes - in the museum and cafes.

Do it justice in: Waterfront - 90 minutes walking, museum - 90 minutes to a few hours.

Inside-Outside: 50:50

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